In our contemporary hyper-connected world, no one opens a restaurant or bar without a visual, marketable asset that attracts interest from passers-by and patrons — who stop in their tracks to snap and upload to social media platforms. Within the central tentacles of Lisbon’s fashionable Principe Real district, A Cevicheria hit the jackpot with their giant octopus. Constructed from foam, the Instagram-famous mollusc has dominated the interior since opening in 2014.
But you can’t survive on gimmick alone. And in a city with a pastelaria (snack bar) and churrascaria (barbecue) on every corner, it was a risk to pursue specific Peruvian cuisine. Step forward Kiko Martins, a Cordon Bleu-trained chef and highly regarded within culinary circles, who already owned nearby O Talho, but wanted to develop new ways of eating fish. Five years on, the fact that they are open daily till midnight — with queues commonplace — ranks A Cevicheria as one of the best eateries in the Portuguese capital.